Irish Times Restaurant Review - Lagom Kenmare
Corinna Hardgrave of The Irish Times finds Lagom to be “a Goldilocks moment” where Swedish calm meets Kerry fire. With quiet design, wood-fired precision, and seasonal ingredients at the forefront, she calls it “a restaurant with restraint, confidence and clarity.”
When The Irish Times visited Lagom this spring, they described the experience as “a Goldilocks moment where Swedish harmony meets fired-up Kerry fare.” We couldn’t agree more.
A Room That Breathes
The review begins not with food, but with feeling. The quiet texture of putty-coloured walls, the grain of birch saplings, the warmth of natural slate. “The space is gently choreographed,” writes Corinna Hardgrave. It is, as intended, a room that lets you exhale.
Flame, Simplicity, and Season
Our kitchen is small. The fire is central. Each dish begins with what’s in season, sourced locally where possible, and shaped by restraint. The Irish Times praised the confidence behind the menu:
A squid ink croustade filled with crab and bright herbs.
Goat’s cheese tortellini in beetroot borscht—“earth and acidity in silk.”
Lamb cooked gently over oak, served with a lamb cannelloni.
And the rhubarb “iceberger”: gingerbread and Champagne-macerated rhubarb, a final note that “absolutely floors you.”
A Balanced Table
Lagom means “not too little, not too much.” The balance lives in the cooking, but also in the service, the design, the rhythm of the evening. It is a place to settle in—whether for a quiet solo dinner or a shared occasion.
Our menus shift with the seasons. You can view them here.
Just Right
The Irish Times put it simply:
““A ceramic grill and a steady hand give Lagom its edge.””
We’re very grateful for the kind words. Read the full article here
Understated Excellence – Lise Hand on Lagom
In The Sunday Times, Lise Hand calls Lagom “understated excellence.” In a town known for its culinary buzz, she finds quiet brilliance in our fire-led cooking, thoughtful design, and seasonal balance.
In The Sunday Times, Lise Hand describes Lagom as “a worthy addition to Kerry’s crowded culinary map.” It’s a quiet compliment—exactly the kind we value most.
A Quiet Space, Thoughtfully Made
On Henry Street in Kenmare, behind a muted façade, Lagom offers a moment of stillness.
The dining room is calm—branches as dividers, curated art on the walls, tables set with quiet intention.
Hand writes of its contrast to the bustle outside. A “pianissimo spot amid business conducted con brio.”
That’s exactly how we see it too.
Letting the Food Speak
We don’t say much in advance.
And that’s by design.
What we source is seasonal.
What we cook is done over fire.
What we serve is balanced—nothing more, nothing less.
The review highlights scallops over cucumber spaghetti, feather blade of beef slow-cooked to silk, and lamb prepared two ways. Each dish grounded in local ingredients and made to taste of its time and place.
“This was one of my meals of the year”
We’re grateful for her visit, and her kind words. You can read the full review via The Sunday Times here